Vogue 8951: Return of the Black Hoodie

Continuing my trend of impossible-to-photograph projects, I’ve finished my May MAGAM project—a black hooded pullover with a contrast hood lining. I know hoods aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I love them. When I was a broody, angry teenager, I wore a black hoodie almost every day. I wouldn’t describe myself as angry or brooding anymore, but there is still something comforting about having a piece of clothing that reminds me of a younger me. Now that the semester is over and it’s just me and my dissertation hanging out all day long, I feel like this hoodie is helping me channel some of my adolescent moxie.

Vogue 8951

To make this, I used Vogue 8951, view B, which has a lined hood and a kangaroo pocket. The main fabric is a medium-weight cotton interlock and the hood lining is a lighter-weight cotton/Spandex jersey blend, both purchased from Fabric.com. The pattern has a self-lined hood, so adding a contrast lining is just a matter of cutting the lining pieces from a different fabric rather than from the main fabric. This is the first time I’ve worked with an interlock and I can see why people recommend it for those new to sewing with knits—it definitely behaves more like a woven than a less stable knit, making it not only easy to sew, but easy to cut as well. I started with a size XL at the shoulder and graded out to the XXL at the armscye. In addition to adding the constrast hood lining, I removed the weird extra flap of fabric at the back hem and folded out 1” of length at the hip. I also narrowed the shoulder 3/8” and should have narrowed it even more.

Vogue 8951

This is an easy pattern, but it still stretched my newbie sewing skills. This was the first time I’ve attached a pocket to anything, worked with facings, worked a buttonhole, done a split hem, or done any significant amount of top-stitching on a garment. Thankfully, the pattern instructions were pretty clear and easy-to-follow. I got tripped up trying to figure out the weird pocket origami, but I think that was mostly reader-error. Otherwise, I took my time and kept my seam ripper close by, and things turned out pretty well in the end.

Vogue 8951

I’d like to make a less loungey version of this pattern in the future, especially since I really like the hood and the split neck with this pattern. All of the other versions of this pattern I’ve seen have been made up in a sweater knit, and I think I’d get a lot of wear out of a sweater-knit hooded pullover. When I make it again, I would cut a straight XL and do an FBA to get a more fitted look through the bust. I’d also narrow the shoulder a bit more and take out some of the excess width from the upper back. I’d also like the sleeves to be a bit more narrow.

Vogue 8951 Hood Detail

I have a couple of heavier, slouchy cardigans that I wear around the house all the time during winter but I wanted something lighter weight for spring. And I think Aidan wanted me to stop wearing his hoodies. Given this goal, I’m really happy with how this turned out. The fit is relaxed and very comfortable, the fabric is just the right weight for cooler spring days, and the hood is useful for hiding from the world when the writing is especially trying.

If you’ve got any tips about successfully photographing a black garment that don’t involve washed out, over-exposed photos, I’m eager to hear them!


7 thoughts on “Vogue 8951: Return of the Black Hoodie

  1. That pretty hood lining is a great idea and shows up nicely in your photos even if the rest of your garment doesn’t!

  2. I am happy to have you wear my hoodies. I just don’t remember you wearing them so often before! I guess we really got a shot of spring this year instead of the usual jump from frigid winter to sweltering summer.

  3. Pingback: 2014 in Review | Sweet Alchemy

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