I’ve tried 4 or 5 different patterns for a basic t-shirt, but I haven’t found one that I really like yet. Either I can’t get the fit that I like with a reasonable amount of adjustments or the fit is close but the pattern doesn’t really offer the kinds of sleeve and neckline options that I’d like. I’ve also had issues with patterns being drafted for a kind of fabric/stretch percentage that I’m just not likely to use. I’ve frequently considered buying the Renfrew pattern, but I know I’d have to make adjustments to get it to fit my bust and I know it’s meant to have more ease than I would like. I also considered buying the Lark pattern when it was released, but I knew it would present similar bust (and probably shoulder) fit issues. I also didn’t totally love the versions I was seeing pop up on blogs. So I ordered the Concord pattern as soon as I got the email about it’s release—the multi-cup sizing system plus all of the style options seemed promising and very worth the price for a new pattern.
I’ve made three versions so far. I had some slightly spendy bamboo jersey I bought myself for my birthday, and I was a little hesitant to just cut into it. So I used some olive/drab rayon jersey that I wasn’t really in love with to test the fit of the pattern. For my olive tee, I made View C, which is the long length with the curved, split hem. I used the scoop neckline and the mid-length sleeves with sleeve tabs. This fabric sucks—it is very light-weight (I have to wear a layer underneath this or you’d be able to see my bra), super shifty, and very clingy. That’s all to say that this probably wasn’t the best fabric to use for details like the sleeve tabs and the hem facings.
It took me a minute to figure out what size to start with. The pattern instructions recommend choosing a size by starting with your full bust measurement and then picking the size that is the closest match to your waist measurement. My full bust measurement is 44” and my waist is 36”, which means that my recommended size would be the size 16 with the C/D cup pieces. My pattern cup size (the difference between my high and full bust measurements) is bigger than a D, and I was seeing a few different reviews saying they were planning to go up a cup size on future versions, so I cut the size 16 E/F cup pieces and graded out to an 18 for the hip. I removed an inch from the length of the body at the lengthen/shorten line and did a full bicep adjustment to add .75” to the width of the sleeve.
I’m very happy with the fit on the upper body. (You can see what look to be pull lines at the bust on my olive tee, but the pull lines are actually from the Old Navy tank top I’m wearing underneath.) For my olive test version, I wish I had added more width through the hip to account for the fact that the long length would be skimming over my jeans. I don’t usually wear shirts this long, but I am surprised at how much I like the length on me. I also really like the shape of the curved, split hem. I was worried about the width of the neckline, so I sewed the neckband on the olive version with a ¼” seam allowance. I went back to the recommended 3/8” seam allowance for my two later versions.
For my two black bamboo versions, I kept the sizing and adjustments from the olive tee, but went with the mid length and did one with short sleeves and one with mid-length sleeves and cuffs. I had originally planned to try the V-neck on the short-sleeved tee, but I really love the shape of the scoop neck—not too wide, not too deep, not aggressively U-shaped. (I also suspect that I will want to narrow the V-neck, so I figured I would wait and experiment with that later.) I sewed the side seams for both black tees with a ¼” seam allowance to give myself slightly more room through the waist and hips in particular. They are still very fitted through the hips—I’ll have to spend more time wearing these to decide whether the current width is comfortable or if I’ll want to add more ease in future versions.
At this point, I know better than to proclaim that this is my one, true, best t-shirt pattern. I’ve done that with several patterns before and then my feelings change over time as I see how the garment wears and/or become more particular about fit. (Plus, I clearly love t-shirts and so the likelihood that I will try other t-shirt patterns in the future is very high.) But, I can say that this is probably the happiest I’ve been with a basic t-shirt pattern out of the envelope. I can also say that I really love this bamboo jersey—it’s heavier and more substantial than the rayon jerseys I’ve used but not as stiff and firm as cotton-spandex blends tend to be. Plus, it is super soft. I hope it wears well because these black t-shirts are going to get a workout.