Another Onyx Shirt and Me-Made May

The last time I posted was during my Spring Break. I finished three sewing projects that week–my Black Fog shirt, this Paprika Onyx Shirt, and a disappointing pair of pants that I’ll blog about next. It’s taken me a month to get around to blogging the second two projects because I got hit with end-of-the-semester panic as soon as Spring Break ended. But now my classes are over, my grading is nearly done, and I am very close to being able to say that I survived my first year as an assistant professor.

Paprika Onyx Shirt

I’ve made this pattern once before last summer. I wore my black version a lot last summer and it’s been back in rotation this spring, at least on our warmer days. I decided before cutting out my second version that the fit on the original was good enough to go ahead and use the same pattern pieces, unaltered. While that version was a good enough base for cutting, I stupidly skipped a basted fitting. I constructed the whole thing, using french seams at the sides and even hemming the bottom, before trying it on and realizing that the bust darts were a bit too low and the body was too loose. I left the darts as is but ended up serging off those time-consuming french seams so that I could remove ~1.5″ of width from the body. It’s still a bit looser than I’d like, but it’s comfortable and wearable so I’m calling it good enough.

Paprika Onyx Shirt

The fabric was listed as a cotton voile online, although it’s heavier and has more body than I think is typical of voile. Honestly, it reminds me more of chambray, especially since it gets it’s color from black and hot pink threads that have been woven together with a bit of a slub texture. I really like this fabric and decided to keep this shirt a bit more minimalist by omitting the sleeve tabs. To hold the sleeve cuffs in place, I just tacked them down with a few hand stitches. We’ll see how they hold up in the wash.


I’ve decided I’m going to participate in Me-Made May this year. I’ve been kind of waffling about whether to make a pledge or not since I already wear my handmade stuff pretty consistently and make things that fit well into my life so I’m not sure what I might gain. But, for the sake of fun and curiosity, I’d figure I’d give it a go and see what happens. Here’s my pledge:


I, Anna of, sign up as a participant of Me Made May ’16. I will wear at least one item of handmade clothing a day during the month of May. I will also make time to mend and/or alter at least 5 of my existing handmade garments in an effort to make them more wearable.

Paprika Onyx Shirt

We’re going to California for a week in the middle of the month, so that will add a bit of challenge to the plan of wearing at least one handmade garment a day. I’ll keep track of what I wear on a daily basis for myself, but I won’t be taking daily photos. I might take the occasional pic, but my plan right now is just to post one or two overview posts to reflect on how my pledge goes and what I learn/gain from the experience. I’m glad to have this Onyx Shirt done before the beginning of May–it’s sure to get worn this coming month.

Black Fog

My current sewing project selection process is to simply sew whatever seems interesting to me at the moment. I’ve given up on making sewing plans since I never stick to them. I think when I’m in the process of planning, I tend to be very practical, privileging whatever projects I would most benefit from having in my (very lean) closet. But then when it comes time to actually sew, I find myself completely bored by the practical. The other thing that kills my plans is that my style is changing a bit. When I’m making plans, I end up talking myself out of some of the different cuts and style lines that I find myself drawn to right now and instead come up with lists of projects that reflect the kinds of things that I’ve been safely wearing for years but am now bored with.

ottobre 02-2016

Anyway. When I got the newest issue of Ottobre Woman, I was a little put off because it was pretty much full of things that I cannot ever imagine wearing. Skirts and dresses are always a hard pass for me, but I also hate jumpsuits, anything with a peplum, and especially any kind of cold-shoulder shirt. There are a couple of basic designs in this issue that I might make at some point if I come across the right fabric, but the only thing that immediately jumped out at me was design #5—the Fog Jersey Blouse.

Ottobre Woman 02/2016 Fog Jersey Blouse

This shirt is an A-line tee with a shaped hemline that is basically cropped length at the front. It also has invisible zippers at the side seams, so you can open the side seams up for a deep split. I’m not really sure what drew me to this design, except that I liked the way it hung with the zippers open and that it seemed to strike a nice balance of minimalist with a bit of interest. Regardless, it was what I was interested in sewing, so I didn’t think too hard about the practicality of zippers at the side seams or the fact that I would probably never try on a shirt like this in the store or about whether the neckline was deep enough to be “flattering” for me. I just traced the pattern off and sewed it up in some black cotton jersey I had on hand.


As far as sizing goes, I traced a size 46 for the shoulders and blended out to a 48 under the arm. The only adjustment I made to the pattern was to shorten the sleeves by 2” to get a true ¾ sleeve length. The magazine describes the sleeves as “cropped,” which I think means that they are sort of bracelet length? It’s hard to tell because the sleeves are pushed up on the model.


Neckline detail, complete with all the fuzzies black fabric inevitably attracts


Invisible zipper, partially undone

The neckline is faced with a strip of binding, which results in a nice, clean look. (And it turns out that I really like the shape of the neckline, even if it is higher than I normally wear.) Constructing most of the shirt was a no-brainer. The most time-consuming step was, of course, installing the zippers at the side. I’ve never actually sewn an invisible zipper before. It turns out that what everyone says is true—if you have an invisible zipper foot, it pretty much does all of the work for you. When the zippers are done up, they are actually invisible (although there is some reinforcing stitching at the tops of the zippers, per the pattern instructions, so that definitely makes them less invisible). Of course, I intend to wear the shirt with the zippers open, so no one will really appreciate my work, but that doesn’t make me any less pleased with the outcome on my first two invisible zips.


This is how the shirt hangs when the sides are zipped up

The shirt is fairly short at the front—all the shorter on me than on the model in the magazine because I didn’t do an FBA to add any length for the bust. But I always planned to wear a tank top or something underneath this, so it’s not a big problem. This isn’t the kind of pattern that I see myself making over and over again, but I do like the shape of it, and I’m glad I gave it a try. Plus, now I can mark “invisible zipper” off my sewing-skills-to-learn list!

Ottobre Woman 02/2016 Fog Jersey Blouse

Camas Blouse

I loved this pattern as soon as I saw it, and bought it immediately–well over a year ago, according to my email records. I even printed it out and put the pdf together right away. But I lost momentum and sort of forgot about the pattern for two reasons: first, I wasn’t sure what would be the best way to adjust the pattern to fit me, and second, I wasn’t confident enough in my sewing and was pretty sure I’d screw up the placket.

Thread Theory Camas Blouse

I pulled the pattern out again last month when Thread Theory hosted a Camas Sew-Along. I didn’t actually manage the “sew-along” part, but I read all of the tutorials and found they addressed all of my concerns with the pattern. And now that I’ve finally finished this shirt, I love it. It’s definitely not perfect, but I still think this is probably the nicest thing I’ve sewn for myself so far.

Thread Theory Camas Blouse

(By the way, the tank top I’m wearing under my Camas in these picks is super “grabby” so the shirt doesn’t look as sleek as it can. I have a much nicer cami that I’ve worn under this when I’ve worn it to work that results in a much smoother look, but it was in the laundry due to an unfortunate Moroccan Stew dribbling incident. Regardless, the neckline of this shirt is pretty low, although the sew-along has instructions for raising the neckline if desired.)

For this shirt, I started with the size 16 and blended out to an 18 for the hips. Then I added an inch of length to both the body and the sleeves.  I also did an FBA following the method described in the sew-along, adding an inch of width to the fronts in the middle of the section that would be gathered into the yokes. This adjustment was really easy to make and works nicely to maintain the silhouette of the shirt. I think 1″ is about the upper limit of what I would add to this pattern–the fronts were pretty densely gathered for me, and I suspect that adding much more width through this method might result in some unflattering “poofing” under the yokes. Also, be careful not to keep the gathering outside of the placket seam allowance. My gathering got caught in the placket seamline on one side and that side doesn’t lay as nicely (although that’s not going to keep me from wearing this).


The actual pattern instructions are very clear, but the nice thing about the sew-along is that it gives a couple of different options for constructing different part of the shirt. I constructed the placket following the steps in the pattern instructions, but next time, I think I’ll try the second, more streamlined method described in the sew-along. The construction of the shirt is quick and straight-forward up to the placket. I was worried that the placket would be difficult, but it really just takes a bit of time and care.


The fabric I used is Dakota Stretch Rayon in Plum. I bought it from, but I don’t think this particular color is available any more. It’s a fluid, drapey fabric so it works well for the gathering details. I used knit interfacing for the yokes and placket, but only interfaced the top layer. My button placket is also fake–I just sewed the buttons through both layers of the placket. The fabric is more than stretchy enough for me to just pull this on, so it didn’t seem worth it to mess around with buttonholes.

Thread Theory Camas Blouse

I’ve got more of this fabric in black and am already planning to use it to make another Camas before the fall semester starts. I love that pattern combines the comfort of knits with some interesting design and construction details. I wish there were more patterns like this.

Leggings: Aires and Sammalikko

All of my comfortable lounge/light exercise/work-at-home pants have given up the ghost. They are threadbare, tattered at the hems, riddled with tiny cat-claw snags and holes, stretched out, poorly fitting, and just generally sad-looking. I decided I would make a couple of pairs of simple leggings to replace them and bought a few yards of a medium-weight black cotton-spandex jersey blend at the beginning of the year. I finally got around to my leggings experiment last week and ended up with 3 pairs of leggings from 2 different patterns.

Seamwork Aires Leggings

The first pattern I tried was the Aires Leggings pattern from the January issue of Seamwork. This pattern caught my attention because it has a wide yoke-style waistband (which tends to fit me much better than the simple elastic-casing-style waistband you see on a lot of basic leggings patterns). It also has a crotch gusset for greater movement and the contrast leg bands offer a bit of visual interest without being as complicated as some of the other athletic leggings patterns around.

However, after seeing a couple of finished pairs online and knowing a bit about the fit issues people have had with Seamwork/Colette patterns, I was skeptical that this pattern would fit me well. Rather than cut right into my new fabric, I decided to make a wearable muslin out of a bunch of knit remnants I had on hand–hence the seriously questionable camo color-blocking.


Sizing and Fit:

I fall right between an XL and a 2X on the Colette size chart and decided to cut a 2X based on the finished measurements. I added about 5″ to the length of the legs and an inch of width at the calf. While sewing, I also removed about .5″ from the front rise before attaching the waistband.

While the fit at the hips indicates that the 2X was the right choice, the waist band is too big for me. (It looks all right in pictures, but doesn’t feel secure enough when I’m wearing these.) Meanwhile, despite adding extra width, the lower legs are still too tight. If I was going to make this pattern again, I would need to take in the waistband and add at least another inch to the lower leg. It’s hard to see in these pictures, but there is some extra fabric at the front crotch so I’d also need to make some adjustments there.



What I like:

The gusset piece is a nice detail and was very easy to construct. The waistband construction also results in something pretty professional-looking. It is a fully-faced, double-layer waistband with 1/4″ elastic sewn into the outer and inner yoke seam. I actually have a pair of yoga pants with a waistband almost exactly like this. If I made this pattern again, I’d probably cut a smaller size for the waist band, but I think the general shape of the waist band conforms nicely to my body.


What I don’t like:

  • I think the contrast leg bands on these is too low for me, and I would be happier if it hit higher on my thigh.
  • The way these are constructed makes it difficult to adjust the fit. The legs only have one seam, which means that it’s harder to customize the fit by taking them in a bit here or there. You also can’t really gauge the fit of the waistband until it’s fully constructed.
  • Frankly, these require more work than I find I’m willing to put into a simple garment like this. I’m not opposed to a more involved pattern, but apparently I’m lazy when it comes to leggings. Making these made me wish I had just bought a pair from Old Navy.
  • This was probably the most inefficient PDF pattern I’ve encountered. So much white space that just got cut off and thrown in the recycling bin. Also, 26 pages of instructions? Excessive.



Ottobre Sammalikko Leggings

So rather than continue to mess around with the Aires pattern, I decided to try the Sammalikko Leggings from the Fall 2014 issue of Ottobre Woman. I cut a straight size 52, using the black jersey I had purchased, and adjusted the fit as I went. I didn’t actually photograph that first pair because, well, they were in the laundry. But, they fit pretty well and once I made the necessary alterations to the flat pattern, my second pair turned out even better.

Ottobre 05/2015 Sammalikko Leggings

(I know this set of photos is cropped weirdly, but my tripod was acting up and there were some landscaping guys lurking around so I settled for weird, crooked pics.)

Sizing and Fit:

Like I said, I cut a straight size 52. I ended up shortening the front rise by 1.25″ and scooped out the front crotch curve. I also shaved about 3/8″ off in the front inseam. I shortened the legs by 3″ (I’m actually taller than the height given on the Ottobre size chart, but their patterns are always too long for me.) The legs on these are cut fairly straight from the knee down, so I ended up tapering the legs more. Finally, when I was sewing this pair, I took them in a bit at the waist by sewing the outseam with a 5/8″ seam allowance through the yoke and tapering back to a 3/8″ seam allowance at the low hip.



What I Like:

I know that seems like I had to make a lot of fit adjustments for a simple pair of leggings, but the pattern is easy to adjust and the initial fit was pretty good–much better than the Aires pattern. That, combined with the straight-forward construction, meant that I was able to fit and sew this pattern in significantly less time than it took me to make the Aires leggings. So this pattern meets my personal requirements for a minimalist, un-fussy leggings pattern.


I also really like the waistband/yoke. It’s a single-layer yoke with 1″ elastic sewn into a fold-down casing at the top. It may not look as polished as the Aires waistband, but the construction is more streamlined, it’s easier to adjust the fit, and the wider elastic feels more secure. This pattern also has a slightly higher rise, which I find more comfortable and less likely to migrate.


What I Don’t Like:

Nothing! In future versions, I might shave off just a little more length from the leg or taper them just a bit more. But overall, I’m really happy with the fit. They are, of course, very comfortable and I’m pleased to once again have a pair of lounge bottoms that don’t make me feel gross.

I started doing yoga again, so at some point, I might make a pair of these in a different fabric with even better recovery (a bamboo jersey would be really nice) and actually try inserting the the gusset piece from the Aires pattern–if it works, it would be the best of both worlds!



Madigan, Revised

When we last we spoke of my Madigan pullover, I was thoroughly disappointed with how the sweater had turned out. I just didn’t like the way that it looked on me, primarily because I wasn’t a fan of the cap sleeves.


As I kept looking at the photos of the sweater, I realized there were other, less obvious aspects of the sweater that I didn’t like. I hated the welted detail at the hip and it seemed a touch too long through the body. Add in the cap sleeves, which required a longer-sleeved tee underneath, and the one feature of the pullover that I really liked–the welted cowl neck–was getting kind of lost in the visual shuffle.

Madigan Pullover

When I initially finished this sweater, I was ready to just rip the whole thing out, but some encouraging blog comments got me to slow down and think about how I could save it. My friend Abby suggested 3/4 sleeves, which I decided to go ahead and add. I also ripped out the welted hem and replaced it with 2″ of 2×2 ribbing, shortening the body of the sweater by ~1″. The ribbing also eliminates the weird rippling I was previously getting around the bottom of the welted hem.


The end result is more wearable because it doesn’t require any creative layering. But even more than that, the revised sweater is a more streamlined look that puts all of the focus on the cowl neck–I’ve basically eliminated anything that was previously a visual distraction from the cowl. People talk a lot about the importance of proportions, which I always find difficult to understand, but I think the new version of the sweater works because of the issue of proportions. The length of the sleeves and the slightly shorter length just look better on my body.

madigan before and after

Anyway, I’m really happy with how this sweater ultimately turned out and even happier that I didn’t just ditch the whole project. The changes were really easy to make since the sweater is knit top-down in the round. I think it took me four or five evenings to add the sleeves and the ribbing. That’s not very much time at all to take a project from being a loser to being one of the best pullovers I’ve made!

Highlighter Socks

So named by Aidan, who kept remarking on how bright these socks are. He has also noted that they are brighter in real life than these photos actually reflect.


I got it in my head at some point last fall to make some striped socks in neon yarn. (Neon yarn was a thing a year or two ago, and I like to come to trends as late as humanly possible.) This particular yarn is Knit Picks Stroll Brights in Pickle Juice, which is a neon yellow-green. The gray yarn is Stroll Solids in Ash. I used one ball of each to make these.


I made these for myself, using the same needles and same basic sock recipe that I typically use for myself. When I was about halfway through the first sock, Aidan asked me if they were for him. I said, “No. Why? Do you like them?” And he said, “Well, they are pretty masculine.” I took this to mean “yes, I like them” and felt a significant pang of guilt for keeping them to myself but forged ahead making them as planned anyway.


But through some twist of fate, these ended up too big for me. This is one of the constant mysteries of knitting. How can you make the same basic thing over and over, even using the same yarn base, and still end up with a random fit failure? Luckily for Aidan, they fit him very well. So he has a new pair of very bright socks, which he wore right away.

Luckily for me, I have another ball of the gray yarn and a ball of a hot purple neon yarn, so I can take a second stab at making myself some striped neon socks.

Ottobre 02/2014 “Till Dawn” Jersey Top

Several months ago, I decided that I could use some shirts in non-neutrals to wear with all of the black and gray cardigans I own. So I found two pieces of rayon jersey in my stash, cut out some pretty simple patterns from Ottobre, and then left the cut out shirts sitting on the end of my ironing board for weeks on weeks on weeks. I finally got around to sewing them up in the week before Christmas. And while one of them was a flop (and was featured as #5 on my Top 5 Misses list), I’m pleased with how this one turned out.

Till Dawn Jersey Top from Ottobre Woman 02/2014

This is the “Till Dawn” V-neck Jersey Top from the Spring 2014 issue of Ottobre Woman. It is just a basic tank, but uses a half lining (kind of like one of those useless shelf bras that they sometimes put in camisoles) to clean finish the neckline and armholes. I didn’t notice until after I’d cut my fabric out that the pattern calls for a jersey with 30% stretch—the rayon-spandex jersey I used has about 60% stretch. If I was wiser, I would have also taken note of the fact that the pattern photo shows a shirt that skims the body rather than being fitted, and that the tank is fairly long. However, I noticed none of these things and had to adjust for them all after the fact.

Till Dawn Jersey Top from Ottobre Woman 02/2014

I found the instructions on this pattern a little bit confusing. I’ve never lined a garment like this before and managed to majorly screw up the armholes the first time. I ended up cutting the armhole seams off and re-sewing them the right way. The trick is to imagine the right side of the neckline as your “home position.” From this position, you twist the pieces to get the right sides to match just for the half of the armhole that you are sewing (the other half of the armhole will be enclosed in the fabric), sew the seam, and then turn it right side out so that you are back at your “home position.”


The instructions for sewing the side seams and attaching the elastic to the bottom of the lining were also confusing and possibly had a step or two missing. I just ignored them and added elastic to the bottom of the lining pieces first, and then sewed up the side seams in one go. I also substituted fold-over elastic for the clear elastic called for in the pattern since it’s more flexible.

As far as sizing goes, I started with the same size blending I’ve been doing with the other Ottobre patterns I’ve made–46 at the shoulders, blended to 48 at armscye, to 50 at waist, to 52 at the hip. I also added ½” of extra length to the center front of the lining, blending to nothing at the sides of the lining piece. Of course, if I had realized before cutting into my fabric that the pattern calls for a jersey with moderate stretch, I would have cut a smaller size. Instead, I just ended up taking this in a ton as I was sewing—I removed a total of 3.5” through the body and pinched out additional width under the arm to remove armhole gape. Ottobre shirts seem to run a bit long for me, but this one was especially so. I cut two inches off the bottom and then folded up a slightly deeper hem then called for.

Till Dawn Jersey Top from Ottobre Woman 02/2014

Anyway, that seems like a lot of work and detail for a straight-forward tank top, but I like the end result even more than I expected to. It looks a bit more polished than the cheap layering tanks I’ve bought from Old Navy before. I like the color and the fabric and the shape of the neckline is perfect. I’ll definitely be wearing this one a lot this spring.


This sweater was part of the stack of projects I finished up before the year ended. It’s a first attempt to deal with the lack of knitted pullovers in my closet, but I’m frankly not sure how I feel about the style on me. Aidan expressed some serious doubt about this sweater when I finished it–he was deeply skeptical of the concept of the short-sleeved sweater and said something along the lines of “Is this an actual thing in fashion?” Seeing the photos, I’m skeptical now too and think it looks better on other people who have made this than it does on me.


The upside is that Madigan is a pretty straight-forward knit. After working with some truly massive, page-intensive patterns like the Grandpa Cardigan and Little Wave, it was refreshing to work on a piece where the actual instructions for the sweater, from cast on to bind off, fit on a single page. It is knitted from the top down in one piece, and the majority of the body is knitted in stockinette, which makes this a really easy pattern to adjust for fit.


I started with the 42.5” as my base size, following that set of instructions through the cowl and yoke shaping. I needed to add about 3” worth of stitches for my full bust, so I cast on for a few extra stitches under each arm and worked a set of vertical bust darts after I finished the welt pattern in the yoke. I also added 3” of length to the front through horizontal bust darts and substituted my own shaping for the waist and high hip.


By the way, I’ve been doing the standard wrap-and-turn short rows for my horizontal bust darts. But with this project, I tried using German Short Rows following this tutorial from La Maison Rililie. It’s a great tutorial and I’m really happy with the result—the German Short Rows blend in so much better than what I was doing before.


Ramona carefully supervised the blocking process.

The yarn is Valley Yarns Northampton in Medium Grey. This project is a testament to the healing powers of blocking. When I first finished it and tried it on, it felt like a sausage casing and the cowl was completely stiff. After a nice, long bath, the yarn relaxed, the fit was much more comfortable, and the cowl has enough drape that it lies nicely now.


Still, even the wonders of blocking aren’t enough to save this one for me. I’d much prefer a lighter weight pullover–worsted weight just feels too bulky to me for a garment like this. Plus, the style just isn’t my favorite. At this point, I’m about 90% certain that this one is going to be ripped out and turned into something new. Such is the beauty of knitting. I’m thinking a second version of the Grandpa Cardigan in this gray would be especially useful. We’ll see.

Handmade Christmas Gifts 2015

So here’s the run-down of everything I made for Christmas this year. I didn’t make much, which was the right choice given that this was The Year of Stress. I managed to finish everything up by mid-December without any rushed, late night speed-crafting sessions so I’m pleased.



Recipient: My dad’s girlfriend, Jess

Pattern: Winterlong by Bristol Ivy

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool in Grey Mix

Notes: I still love this pattern as much as the first time I made it and would make it a third time in a heart beat. I decided to make this for Jess while we sat together in the waiting room during my dad’s bypass surgery in October. She is a wonderful person, and I was very grateful to have her there.

Family Stockings for the Newest Additions

Modern Classics Stockings

Recipients: Our twin nephews, Gus and Oliver

Pattern: Modern Classics Stocking

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes in Hollyberry and White

Notes: This is the sixth and seventh time I’ve made this pattern. I made stockings for me and Aidan about six years ago, and then another set for Aidan’s sister, her wife, and their son a couple of years ago. They had twins in August, and so the new boys needed stockings to match the rest of the family. As I’ve done every time before, I mixed the “classic” and “modern” charts from the pattern. It’s a good thing that these are quick to knit (I think I managed the second one in three days?), because I was not feeling this project, which made for rather joyless obligation knitting.

Ninja PJs

Alex and Anna Winter PJs

Recipients: Our trio of nephews–Rowan, Gus, and Oliver

Pattern: Alex and Anna Winter PJsAlex and Anna Winter PJs

Fabric: Blue Riley Blake “Year of the Ninja” cotton-spandex jersey, plus some black cotton-spandex leftovers for the neckbands and cuffs

Notes: This project was driven entirely by the potential cuteness of getting all three boys in some kind of matching clothes. Rowan is almost five, so getting him on board with matching his baby brothers seemed like a window that could slam shut at any moment. I went with the Winter PJs pattern because it has a huge size range (3 months to a size 12), and because they are similar in style to the PJs Rowan usually wears.

Alex and Anna Winter PJs

Figuring out sizing was a bit tricky. Rowan is such a skinny thing that his waist measurement puts him in the 6 months size. I ended up following the 3T for width (but cutting the elastic shorter than recommended for the 3T) and extending to the 4T for length. The twins’ measurements put them squarely in the 3 months size at Thanksgiving. They are growing fast (as babies do) so I was worried that the 6 mos size would fit them for about a minute, but the next size up was the 12 mos. I improvised a sort of 6-9 months size by using the 6 mos size as a base, adding a little bit of extra length, and then sewing them with a slightly smaller seam allowance.

Alex and Anna Winter PJs

When I was looking for reviews of this pattern, it was hard to find much discussion of the sizing, beyond that they are meant to be close fitting. I haven’t seen the babies in their PJs, but I was surprised at just how close-fitting Rowan’s were, especially since his width-wise measurements put him in the 6 mos size and I made him a 3T in width. It might have just been shocking since he is so skinny that all his clothes are baggy–my father-in-law even asked, “How did you get them to fit so close?”

Alex and Anna Winter PJs

Rowan’s PJs fit him really well right now, but it makes me nervous about the fit on the baby PJs and makes me wish I had washed and dried the fabric twice before cutting. I would also say that the length on Rowan’s pair seems just right for his size. So, to sum it up, these are really cute but you definitely need a jersey with at least 50% stretch and you should just automatically cut one size up–it won’t give you baggy PJs; it will just give you some wiggle room.

So that was the gift scene this year. I don’t think I disappointed anyone terribly by giving them something handmade rather than, say, a Target gift card. The real risk was giving the 4-year-old clothes. But we also gave him a truck that shoots out Hot Wheels, so I think we managed to balance the scales.

Little Wave

It’s taken me a minute (by which I mean several years) to figure out what I really like in a hand knit cardigan. As I recently established, I’m not feeling the open front cardigan. But I’ve also made a handful of more traditional, fitted cardigans like my Audrey in Unst cardigan and my Squared cardigan, and I don’t really enjoy wearing those styles either.

Little Wave Cardigan


The cardigans I do reach for are relaxed and cozy heavier-weight cardigans with shawl collars. My most-worn cardigans have been my Girl Friday and my Grandpa cardigan. I wear them regularly as a top layer in winter, and throw them on in lieu of a light jacket in spring and fall.

Little Wave Cardigan

This Little Wave cardigan is very similar in style to those favorite cardigans, and I’m confident that I’ll be wearing this one all the time. I love all the design details on this pattern—the little wave stitch pattern, the pockets, the saddle shoulder, the garter stitch elbow patches. For me, this sweater represents all the best things about being able to make my own clothes. With this piece, I get all of the design details I like about more masculine clothing, but made to fit my body.

Little Wave Cardigan

The Little Wave pattern is actually written as a unisex pattern, with a separate set of instructions for men and women. I think this is a really smart design move. The men’s and women’s versions aren’t radically different, but are simply adjusted for different bodily proportions and design preferences. So the sleeves and body on the men’s version are longer while the women’s version has some waist shaping, a more shallow yoke, and slightly narrower shoulders. Including two versions results in a fairly long pattern (16 pages), but it’s a great pattern overall. The instructions were clear and easy to follow and the construction of the yoke is clever and results in a great fit.

Little Wave Cardigan

My measurements (hip 52”, waist 41”, full bust 47”, high bust 41”) mean that my body typically spans about 3 conventional size ranges. Since this is a heavily patterned piece with a new-to-me yoke construction, it took me a bit to figure out how I wanted to modify the pattern to fit me. In the end, I decided to use the 46” size as my base for the body. I added some extra stitches to the garter panels on the sides so the sweater would be 50” at the hips. Then I worked extra decreases and decreased at a faster rate to get down to the correct stitch count for the waist of the 46” size.


The next challenge was decreasing from the 46” size so that I could follow the yoke instructions for the 41.25” size. I did this through a combination of methods—starting the neckline shaping early to work in a few extra sets of decreases, adding a couple of extra decrease rounds early on in the yoke shaping, and binding off a few extra stitches under the arm. The only other change I made was to shorten the sleeves by about 2”. As many people have noted on Ravelry, the sleeves on this are really long, even when you factor in the cuffed sleeves. In the end, I’m happy with how all of my modifications worked out. The sweater still has a casual, relaxed feel but is fitted enough to keep it from looking sloppy.

Little Wave Cardigan

The yarn is Valley Yarns Northampton in Ocean Heather. Northampton is my go-to worsted right now–it’s equitable in quality to my other favorite, Cascade 220, but with better yardage at a better price. I’ve got a bunch of Northampton in Charcoal that I’m going to use for my first sweater of 2016. As you might have guessed, I’ve got another cozy, relaxed, shawl-collar cardigan style planned: Mari Chiba’s Solitude Jacket. I just have a few lingering 2015 projects to finish up so I can start a new year of knitting off fresh.