Another Onyx Shirt and Me-Made May

The last time I posted was during my Spring Break. I finished three sewing projects that week–my Black Fog shirt, this Paprika Onyx Shirt, and a disappointing pair of pants that I’ll blog about next. It’s taken me a month to get around to blogging the second two projects because I got hit with end-of-the-semester panic as soon as Spring Break ended. But now my classes are over, my grading is nearly done, and I am very close to being able to say that I survived my first year as an assistant professor.

Paprika Onyx Shirt

I’ve made this pattern once before last summer. I wore my black version a lot last summer and it’s been back in rotation this spring, at least on our warmer days. I decided before cutting out my second version that the fit on the original was good enough to go ahead and use the same pattern pieces, unaltered. While that version was a good enough base for cutting, I stupidly skipped a basted fitting. I constructed the whole thing, using french seams at the sides and even hemming the bottom, before trying it on and realizing that the bust darts were a bit too low and the body was too loose. I left the darts as is but ended up serging off those time-consuming french seams so that I could remove ~1.5″ of width from the body. It’s still a bit looser than I’d like, but it’s comfortable and wearable so I’m calling it good enough.

Paprika Onyx Shirt

The fabric was listed as a cotton voile online, although it’s heavier and has more body than I think is typical of voile. Honestly, it reminds me more of chambray, especially since it gets it’s color from black and hot pink threads that have been woven together with a bit of a slub texture. I really like this fabric and decided to keep this shirt a bit more minimalist by omitting the sleeve tabs. To hold the sleeve cuffs in place, I just tacked them down with a few hand stitches. We’ll see how they hold up in the wash.

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I’ve decided I’m going to participate in Me-Made May this year. I’ve been kind of waffling about whether to make a pledge or not since I already wear my handmade stuff pretty consistently and make things that fit well into my life so I’m not sure what I might gain. But, for the sake of fun and curiosity, I’d figure I’d give it a go and see what happens. Here’s my pledge:

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I, Anna of sweetalchemy.wordpress.com, sign up as a participant of Me Made May ’16. I will wear at least one item of handmade clothing a day during the month of May. I will also make time to mend and/or alter at least 5 of my existing handmade garments in an effort to make them more wearable.

Paprika Onyx Shirt

We’re going to California for a week in the middle of the month, so that will add a bit of challenge to the plan of wearing at least one handmade garment a day. I’ll keep track of what I wear on a daily basis for myself, but I won’t be taking daily photos. I might take the occasional pic, but my plan right now is just to post one or two overview posts to reflect on how my pledge goes and what I learn/gain from the experience. I’m glad to have this Onyx Shirt done before the beginning of May–it’s sure to get worn this coming month.

Paprika Onyx Shirt

Behold: my first successful woven garment.

Paprika Onyx Tee

This is the Onyx Shirt from Paprika Patterns. It’s a pretty basic woven tee pattern with a crop top option (thanks, but no thanks). But it has some nice details that I really liked: a slight dropped shoulder, the option for a scooped neckline, and—the big seller—a sleeve cuff and epaulette detail. I ended up making View A with the scooped neck option.

I didn’t make a muslin since it was a pretty basic style and since my fabric was something ridiculous like $2/yard. I did, however, make a few fit alterations before cutting out my fabric. Starting with the size 7, I:

  • Did a 1.5” FBA, rotating part of the dart out to the hem but leaving most of the dart in for a better fit.
  • Added 2” in width to the sleeve. Since I was adding so much width, I had to make some adjustments to the sleeve cap and the length of the armscye. I used this tutorial from The Curvy Sewing Collective, and the adjustments worked out nicely.
  • Blended out to a size 9 at the hip.

For a first go with this pattern, I’m pretty happy with the fit. Next time, I’ll add a bit more width to the back hem so it falls better at the back hip. If you look at the profile view picture farther down the post, you can see that the side seam is unbalanced and is being pulled towards the back.

The fabric is a cotton voile from Fabric.com that has a plaid pattern woven into it. I believe Fabric.com described it as a “shadow plaid.” The texture is a nice alternative for the print-phobic like me. Plus, while I did make an effort to match the horizontal lines of the plaid along the side seams and to center the plaid down the front and back, I didn’t have to worry too much about messing up the plaid matching at the sleeves and such since the plaid design isn’t highly visible. This fabric was very eager to fray, so I used French seams wherever I could and finished the sleeve seams with a 3-step zigzag stitch.

Paprika Onyx Tee

My only complaint with this pattern has to do with the cuffs. The way the cuffs are finished, you end up with an unfinished edge that gets folded down to the edge of the sleeve and that remains invisible so long as the cuffs are in place. But the cuff is only secured by a line of stitching at the sleeve seam and then by epaulette. The end result is that it is pretty easy for the cuff to flip out of place and show the unfinished edge. I recently finished a pair of pants with a cuff that is invisibly secured with a hem stitch. If/when I make this pattern again, I would probably try the same technique on the sleeve cuffs to keep the cuffs from flipping down.

Paprika Onyx Tee

I wasn’t sure I would actually like a woven tee, but I’ve really enjoyed wearing this shirt and I think it looks pretty good on me. I actually wore this with a pair of gray pants for the new faculty orientation at my college and no one gave me side eye. So two thumbs up for that.

Ramona sat at the window watching me like a creeper as I photographed four different projects. Such a nerd.