A little while ago, I decided to give up on trying to make basic t-shirts. I had tried two different patterns—the Maria of Denmark Birgitte Basic Tee and McCall’s 6658—but after making both up multiple times and making lots of adjustments, I couldn’t get either pattern to fit the way I needed through the chest and shoulder. It didn’t seem like it should be such a struggle to find a basic pattern that fit well where it matters most, so I decided to just give up the ghost and start buying t-shirts from Old Navy again.
And then I actually bought some T-shirts from Old Navy and remembered what a shitty solution that was. Such is the plight of bodies that span 3-4 sizes on a standard sizing chart. So I went back to the drawing board to find yet another t-shirt pattern to try. I’ve come very close to buying Sewaholic’s Renfrew pattern several times, but even as a pdf download, it’s a bit more money than I want to spend for a pattern that only goes up to a 41” bust. In my searches, I was reminded of the SBCC Tonic Tee, which is not only available in plus sizes (albeit as petite sizing) but is also free. And lo and behold, I’ve finally hit on a t-shirt pattern that I’m really pleased with.
Honestly, the only reason I tried this pattern was because of its lack of price, which, combined with a length of stashed fabric that I had no plans for, meant that I had nothing to lose with this experiment but a bit of time. But I am really impressed with some of the drafting details on the Tonic Tee. It’s drafted with a slight forward shoulder, a high and scooped armscye, a sleeve head that is shaped differently for the front and back of the body, and a slightly dipped front hem to account for the stretch of the fabric over the bust. I also really like the shape and depth of the neckline.
As far as sizing, I started by tracing off a straight 1X. My high-bust measurement actually matches the XL size, but my fabric had less than the 75% stretch called for by the pattern, so I sized up per the pattern instructions. Since the pattern is drafted for petites and I am not (especially in the torso), I added an inch of length at the pattern’s shorten/lengthen line just above the waist and an additional inch around the hip. I also added ½” of width to the back at the hip and did a 3/8” narrow shoulder adjustment. Finally, I did a 1” FBA, rotating part of the dart out to the hem and easing the rest of the dart in to the side seam at bust level. It seems like a lot of adjustments, but they didn’t take long and, more importantly, they gave me a really good fit with this pattern right out of the gate. All told, I’m wearing these shirts with 1” of negative ease at the bust, ~2” of negative ease at the hip, and zero ease at the sleeve hem.
All of these shirts are made with lightweight cotton-spandex blends. The charcoal, black, and olive fabrics are all from Girl Charlee and the black and gray stripes are a Riley Blake print I ordered from Fabric.com as a reward for finishing a long dissertation chapter on a film that goes to great lengths to make fat bodies seem disgusting and pathetic from the inside out. So, you know, self-care all that jazz. Sadly for the filmmakers, I feel neither disgusting nor pathetic and will continue flaunting my fat in these horizontal stripes. I give their film two hearty middle fingers.
Anyway. I had kind of discounted SBCC patterns because of their petite sizing, but now that I know I can make a couple of easy adjustments to make them work for my non-petite body, I’m planning to try out the Cabernet Cardigan this fall. Hopefully I won’t bore you too much with all of my normcore fashion decisions.