Paprika Onyx Shirt

Behold: my first successful woven garment.

Paprika Onyx Tee

This is the Onyx Shirt from Paprika Patterns. It’s a pretty basic woven tee pattern with a crop top option (thanks, but no thanks). But it has some nice details that I really liked: a slight dropped shoulder, the option for a scooped neckline, and—the big seller—a sleeve cuff and epaulette detail. I ended up making View A with the scooped neck option.

I didn’t make a muslin since it was a pretty basic style and since my fabric was something ridiculous like $2/yard. I did, however, make a few fit alterations before cutting out my fabric. Starting with the size 7, I:

  • Did a 1.5” FBA, rotating part of the dart out to the hem but leaving most of the dart in for a better fit.
  • Added 2” in width to the sleeve. Since I was adding so much width, I had to make some adjustments to the sleeve cap and the length of the armscye. I used this tutorial from The Curvy Sewing Collective, and the adjustments worked out nicely.
  • Blended out to a size 9 at the hip.

For a first go with this pattern, I’m pretty happy with the fit. Next time, I’ll add a bit more width to the back hem so it falls better at the back hip. If you look at the profile view picture farther down the post, you can see that the side seam is unbalanced and is being pulled towards the back.

The fabric is a cotton voile from that has a plaid pattern woven into it. I believe described it as a “shadow plaid.” The texture is a nice alternative for the print-phobic like me. Plus, while I did make an effort to match the horizontal lines of the plaid along the side seams and to center the plaid down the front and back, I didn’t have to worry too much about messing up the plaid matching at the sleeves and such since the plaid design isn’t highly visible. This fabric was very eager to fray, so I used French seams wherever I could and finished the sleeve seams with a 3-step zigzag stitch.

Paprika Onyx Tee

My only complaint with this pattern has to do with the cuffs. The way the cuffs are finished, you end up with an unfinished edge that gets folded down to the edge of the sleeve and that remains invisible so long as the cuffs are in place. But the cuff is only secured by a line of stitching at the sleeve seam and then by epaulette. The end result is that it is pretty easy for the cuff to flip out of place and show the unfinished edge. I recently finished a pair of pants with a cuff that is invisibly secured with a hem stitch. If/when I make this pattern again, I would probably try the same technique on the sleeve cuffs to keep the cuffs from flipping down.

Paprika Onyx Tee

I wasn’t sure I would actually like a woven tee, but I’ve really enjoyed wearing this shirt and I think it looks pretty good on me. I actually wore this with a pair of gray pants for the new faculty orientation at my college and no one gave me side eye. So two thumbs up for that.

Ramona sat at the window watching me like a creeper as I photographed four different projects. Such a nerd.


8 thoughts on “Paprika Onyx Shirt

  1. hey, ramona is my daughter’s name!
    i am reluctant to do a woven shirt for weather/comfort reasons. i have some plaid cotton i bought specifically to make a button-down but i keep dragging my feet because i usually just reach for tees when it’s hot & thermals when it’s cold. the fabric you chose for this is really pretty.

    • Ramona is such a great name. Sometimes I regret using it for a cat rather than saving it for a future child!

      I wasn’t sure that I would like wearing a woven tee, but I’m surprised by how comfortable it is. I usually just wear regular t-shirts during the summer as well, but I like the fact that this shirt doesn’t cling to me the way most of my knits do. Plus, not clinging means it doesn’t show sweat as much, which I always appreciate.

  2. Oh wow I love this! I had not considered this pattern for me because of the lack of shaping, but maybe I’ll reconsider it. I like the sleeves a lot. I’ve got a couple of woven tshirt type tops that I wear a lot in summer. It looks amazing on you!

    My cat does that creeper thing too, when I’m outside. Does she stare blankly at you the whole time? Mine does!

    • Thanks! I honestly didn’t have a whole lot of faith that this shirt would look good on me since it’s so boxy, so I was pleasantly surprised at how much I like it.

      And yes–the cat just stares blankly at me the whole time! Cats are so weird.

  3. Pingback: Curvy Sewn: Your Creations for September

  4. Pingback: Another Onyx Shirt and Me-Made May | Sweet Alchemy

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